Josh Wrote Another Book!

You may remember a few years back when I shared a story about helping to rescue two ladies on a remote island in the Puget Sound. I originally wrote the story to assist in dealing with a bit of PTSD, and it seemed to help. After sitting on it for awhile, and after learning more details about the traumatic event, I decided to compile it into a book!

The goal of the book is to help others learn about a danger that may exist in their own home and to help unravel this experience a little further to put it (mostly) behind me. It is a captivating story, and I hope you will enjoy it. You can find it here and could be a meaningful and cost-friendly gift idea around the holidays, and portions of the proceeds are used to provide carbon monoxide detectors to tenants in need. Find it on Amazon:

Breathe Again: A True Story of Survival on a Remote Island

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Seattle Pre-Approved DADUs

The Seattle Department of Construction and Inspection (SDCI) made an initiative to pre-approve drawings for a few Detached Accessory Dwelling Units (DADU’s), also known as backyard cottages and mother-in-law houses. These are secondary homes on a property that are detached from the main house, and they are limited to 1000 square feet, have lower height limits, and have relaxed property line setback limitations. These are not to be confused with AADU’s (Attached Accessory Dwelling Units) which are the same thing as a DADU but they are contained within the primary residence. A lot is allowed to have one AADU and one DADU (or two AADU’s).

You can see the drawings that Josh Architects submitted to the building department here:

https://www.seattle.gov/Documents/Departments/OPCD/OngoingInitiatives/EncouragingBackyardCottages/DADU_Submission001.pdf

https://www.seattle.gov/Documents/Departments/OPCD/OngoingInitiatives/EncouragingBackyardCottages/DADU_Submission002.pdf

https://www.seattle.gov/Documents/Departments/OPCD/OngoingInitiatives/EncouragingBackyardCottages/DADU_Submission003.pdf

https://www.seattle.gov/Documents/Departments/OPCD/OngoingInitiatives/EncouragingBackyardCottages/DADU_Submission004.pdf

Our design solutions are the first entries to appear after the ones pre-approved by the city, but they are not actually pre-approved. To be honest, we like the idea of pre-approved structures, but this is a bit far-fetched for Seattle’s thick bureaucratic permitting system. Here’s why pre-approved DADU plans rarely work in the most common neighborhood residential zones of Seattle:

1. Lot Size: for a DADU to be allowed, your lot must be at least 3200 square feet (and min 25’ wide and min 70’ long). Not all lots are big enough to allow them.

2. Lot coverage: the percentage of a lot that is allowed to be covered with structures has a limit, so selecting a pre-approved DADU rarely works in our experience since most don’t fit within the remaining percentage of the land that is still allowed to be developed.

3. Setbacks: DADU’s are required to be spaced a certain distance from each property line, from the main residence, and also from any other structure. It is pretty rare that a pre-approved DADU happens to be the exact size required to magically fit on a property without violating the setback requirements (and also without exceeding the percentage limit in #2 above).

4. Trees: trees are good, but Seattle likes its trees more than you and more than the housing problem. Removal of trees to make way for a DADU is regulated, and commonly, many trees are not allowed to be removed since they exceed the size threshold to get permission to remove them. Consequently, the required setbacks from protected trees commonly do not leave enough space for a pre-approved DADU to fit on the remaining property. There is a way to relax property line setbacks in this scenario, but it rarely helps.

5. Topography: there’s usually something about the slope of Seattle lots that causes the foundations of any structure to require special custom design considerations. Consequently, the pre-approved structure needs to be re-evaluated, so there’s really not much about the design that is truly “pre-approved” (if it even happens to fit on your lot based on the previous points). It is common that the topography will be a catalyst for a custom designed DADU.

As you can see, there are many factors that cause the pre-approved plans to not work on many lots. We have never seen one that actually fits outright without some sort of modification. There’s even more reasons than the ones listed above, but another common reason they don’t work is because of a homeowner’s specific needs. They may want the entry door to face a certain direction, or they may not want the DADU’s living room window to be facing the master bathroom window of their main house.

Once a pre-approved DADU doesn’t fit for one of the reasons above, or if a homeowner wants to make a change to it, a redesign happens, and the pre-approval is no longer effective. This almost makes the pre-approval a little scammy. It gets homeowners’ hopes up that they can pick a plan and just expect things to flow smoothly, but the building department doesn’t make anything easy. The redesigns required for most of these situations make the system of pre-approvals nearly pointless.

The moral of the story is not to rely on buying a pre-approved plan because there’s a really really really good chance you will be wasting your money on something that won’t be allowed. It would be best to use the pre-approved plans for inspiration, and to contact an architect that you like, so they may design something for you that will actually fit on your lot that also meets your wants and needs. That would be a much smarter investment and result in no compromise. After all, a DADU is an actual house in your backyard, so it makes sense to spend the money to do it right rather than compromising and selecting something that doesn’t meet all your needs.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

How to Get Higher Basement Ceilings

To dig or not to dig, that is the question.

If your basement ceilings are too low, you have two options: dig the floor lower, or lift the house higher. Both option result in higher basement ceilings. This blog post will explain the pros and cons of each option. Depending on the configuration of your existing house, one option may make more sense than the other. Let’s DIG in:)

OPTION 1: DIG DOWN

If you dig down lower, there’s the obvious: cutting away the existing concrete floor and removing a lot of dirt from your basement. If there’s an exterior door in your basement (or an easily accessible giant window), you will have an easier time getting all of this dirt and concrete out. If you can somehow drive a mini excavator tractor into the basement, then it will be even easier. If you will need guys to use shovels and carry buckets a long distance to a dump truck, then things will be a lot more difficult (and expensive). So step one is getting all the debris out. If there’s a feasible path, then this might be the better option. If there’s not a feasible path, there still might be an option to make a temporary path by cutting a hole in the wall and making a temporary ramp. At some point, the temporary work might outweigh the cost benefit though. Remember, dirt needs to go somewhere. This means you need to have a way of getting it outside. You need some place to store/put it outside. If there’s no room for the dirt on your property, then you will need to hire a dump truck driver to drive your “spoils” to a dump location where they will charge a per-pound dumping fee. The best case scenario is a big yard for you to spread your soil, and a wide doorway to get it out of your basement.

Once the soil has been removed, the next step is to support the house that is sort of dangling there since you removed all the dirt that was holding it up. Technically, this is not a “next step.” It is actually something that happens during the digging. The digging starts by digging down under some strategic points, so temporary deeper foundations and temporary longer columns can be placed to support the house BEFORE it ends up just dangling there. The diagram below shows the original column that can be removed AFTER the temporary deeper one is put into place. Ideally, this temporary column can be placed somewhere that it is permanent for the intended layout of the new basement. Also, hopefully this temporary column will not be in the way of the excavation efforts. Obviously, you wouldn’t want a column blocking the area that all that dirt needs to exit.

The red column is installed into a hole that is deeper than the existing columns, so you can later remove the short existing black column (and dig out the floor below it)

In addition to installing longer columns and removing the old ones that are too short, you also need to retrofit your foundation walls that are not deep enough to allow higher ceilings. This gets tricky. There’s two ways to do it: benching and intermittent digging.

With benching, you just leave the existing foundation walls alone. You don’t do any digging near the existing walls. This allows the existing walls to still do their original job, but it causes you to still have areas with low ceilings next to those existing exterior walls. There is a 45 degree rule here. If you think back to math in school, a 45 degree angle is formed by a vertical line and horizontal line of the same exact length. When doing benching in a basement, this same rule applies. If you want to dig down 12”, then you need to do the digging 12” away from the existing wall. This means the digging is far enough away from the existing foundation that it won’t affect the structural integrity of it. Of course there are a lot of nuances to this, and structural engineering is required to get it all dialed in. The image below shows how the 45 degree angle rule applies to benching.

Benching causes less structural impact on the existing foundation wall

The bench created from the option above can create an awkward space, or it can create an opportunity with a bit of creative design work. In the past, we have used these as platforms for washer and dryers, a surface for an entertainment center, a seating surface, and we have even put built-in cabinets above them with fake cabinet panels on the bottom surface to make it look like it’s all one big cabinet. The benching method sacrifices a bit of floor space, but it is more cost effective than the next method: intermittent digging.

Intermittent digging is the process of sequentially digging below parts of your foundation wall while leaving other parts of the foundation wall in place (so it won’t cave in). I have seen structural engineers allow as much as 8’ long sections of concrete walls to be “undermined” (which means to dig out the soil below the wall). An 8’ long wall just hanging there is a pretty heavy chunk of concrete. In this method, the idea is to dig out a small part(s) of the wall(s), and pour the new concrete under those areas before digging out the rest of the dirt below the remaining walls. You are essentially just making the existing walls deeper, but that means removing the dirt below them - and the whole purpose of foundation walls is to allow your house to safely rest on the soil. For a period of time, parts of your house will rest on no soil! The image below shows how parts of an existing wall can be undermined to enable a new wall to be built below the existing one.

Intermittent digging allows you to make a wall extend further into the ground by digging under small parts of it at a time. You would form the concrete under that section of wall before digging under another section.

With intermittent digging, the process is slow. You can only dig away some of the dirt, since only a small part of a wall can be unsupported at any given time. Then you need to pour concrete under that wall and wait for it to harden before digging below other areas of the wall. Because of this sequential digging and pouring of concrete, intermittent digging is more costly than the benching technique. It is simply easier to do all the digging at once and to do all of the pouring of concrete at once. The cost of mobilization is very significant in construction. To get a concrete crew “mobilized” on site means tradesmen, their special tools, a concrete mixing truck (or mixer), and likely a concrete pump needs to be setup and eventually cleaned up on a jobsite. Doing this more than once significantly impacts the cost and timeline of the project.

Regardless of which method of digging you choose (benching or intermittent digging), how do you know if digging down to achieve better basement ceiling height is the best choice for your project when compared to the opposite method of lifting the whole house higher? When you dig down, every single item that touches the ground will need to be addressed. If you have a lot of columns in the basement, that is a lot of columns that will need extended in length. If you have poor access to the basement, that will be really difficult to remove the dirt and debris. If those two things are a consideration, then lifting the house may be a better option - but only if you don’t have a lot of the red flags that can come with lifting a house, which you will learn about next.

OPTION 2: LIFT THE HOUSE

If you want to gain more ceiling height in the basement, lifting the house could be a valid option. Basically, you need to detach the house from its foundation, so the house can be lifted away from it. This means unbolting all of the fasteners that attach the existing wood framing to the concrete walls. Also, any columns in the existing basement (or crawlspace) will need to be detached, so the house can be lifted up without pulling them away from the concrete floor. There is likely also a bunch of electrical lines, plumbing pipes, and ductwork that will need detached too. Once all of the house is detached from the foundation, the next step is to slide some temporary steel beams under the house. Then jacks (like the jacks that lift a car) are placed below the steel beams to lift them up inch by inch very slowly. As the house is lifted away from its foundation, “cribbing” is installed below the steel beams, so the beams may rest on the cribbing to enable the jacks to be removed. Cribbing basically looks like wood pallets stacked on each other. They take wood timbers and stack them like a log cabin from the basement floor to the underside of the temporary steel beams. The cribbing provides a temporary support for the house while it is floating above its existing concrete foundation. The image below illustrates all these parts and pieces.

After you detach the house from the foundation, temporary steel beams can slide underneath the house, so jacks can lift it

The act of lifting a house is actually pretty simple. It’s the easy part. The more difficult stuff is all the nuances like extending wires, ducts, stairs/porches, and chimneys. For example, if you lift the house further away from the basement floor, your electrical wires don’t just stretch upwards. They need to be cut and re-wired. The same is true for your ductwork that leads to your furnace. A more difficult obstacle is porches. When you lift a house, are you going to lift the porch too? Probably not. It’s often easier to just rebuild a porch or deck than to go through the hassle of lifting it. If you lift your house a couple feet higher, that means you might need like 4 more steps to climb up into your house. This means the stairs that lead to your new porch need to be rebuilt. On small properties within urban areas, this could pose a problem since many homes are built tight up against their property line setbacks, so you may not be allowed to extend additional stairs away from your house and into a setback area. Additionally, if you have a chimney, it is not very feasible to lift a big, heavy pile of bricks. Usually, chimneys need to be removed when homes get lifted. A new fireplace will need to be built or omitted. The last challenge that relates to lifting is the damage that is likely to occur. When you lift a house, you do it fractions of inches at a time to minimize damage, but as things settle into place, plaster cracks, windows crack, tiles pop, and doorways can become pinched shut. All of those things will need to be repaired once the project continues.

CONCLUSION

To lift or not to lift? Maybe it’s easier to just move? Often it is actually easier to start over and just demolish the whole house. This is where an expert comes in. We have done many of these projects, and we can help advise on which method makes the most sense.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Dimensions

Dimensions are measurements written on drawings. The intent of architectural drawings is to tell builders where to put things, what they are, and how big. Dimensions are one way to communicate “how big” and “where” something is.

This post addresses the “how big” and the “where to put it” since those go hand-in-hand. Similar to putting catsup on a hot dog, a dimension is not needed nor provided to instruct us on how to apply catsup on our hot dogs … instead, you put the catsup “from-here-to-there” from one end of the hot dog to the other. Nobody has ever needed to know the exact length of the hot dog to apply to catsup to it.

The same is true in construction. If you want to tile a floor, the builder needs to know the starting point and stopping point. The exact length really isn’t important for anyone else, so if we tell the builder, put tile from this wall to this doorway, then they can take whatever measurements they need - and the person doing the work is the best person to take those precise measurements for their own purposes.

If a client wants a window placed exactly in the middle of a room (centered between two other objects) or aligned with some specific item, that goal is what we communicate. We don't care if it is 10'-2, 10'-1 15/16", or 10'-2 1/16", so we WON'T tell the builder the DIMENSION of where to put the window. Again we don't care what the DIMENSION is. Instead, we care that the window is CENTERED in the room or ALIGNED with whatever. Therefore, instead of putting a random dimension on a drawing, we put the actual goal such as: "CENTER THIS WINDOW IN THIS ROOM."

Buildings aren't perfectly square, nobody's construction work is ever perfect, no tape measure gets pulled the same way each time, wood warps, wood has gaps, glue has thicknesses, plaster has thickness, etc. I can't get a builder the measurements for the things that were already partially built - only the builder can get those measurements to see how wide a room is built (for example), and then divide that number in half to locate a window in the center of it.

We give builders enough info to build the project according to the client's approved goals. Then the builder starts building it within reasonable tolerances while working toward the goal written on the drawings. It is important to understand the goal when you are spending thousands of dollars of somebody's money to build them something, and nobody should get upset that they were given the responsibility to actually understand their client's actual goal. All too often, builders call and say, "there's no dimensions for the windows or doors on the drawings." My response is, "of course not. They don't care about the dimensions and neither should you. They only care that you put the window in the middle of the room, so that's why the drawings specifically say in writing to 'put the window in the center of the room.' Do you also need a dimension on the drawing to be able to do that? If so, measure the wall that you just built, send the dimension to me, and I will divide it in half for you. That's where you put the window. I don't know how big you built the wall. I know how big it's supposed to be built, but what is supposed to happen and what already happened are typically not the same thing. So measure the wall, divide it in half, and put the window there just like the drawings already say in writing."

If a client wants something in the middle, why would a builder even want a specific dimension? As construction tolerance change, or as decisions throughout construction change and impact the rest of the building, an old dimension becomes outdated and useless, but the words "center in room" never become outdated. Communicating the actual goal is the most valuable information.

Builders also commonly refer to other projects with dimensions scattered all over the place as the "right way to do it." I've been on both sides of it working as a carpenter and architect, and I know with certainty that providing actual dimensions for things that are supposed to be centered or aligned with other things is very much the wrong way to do it. Doing it that way results in mediocrity and allows complacency where guys don't know what they are building - they are building numbers and not considering the actual purpose for the things they are building. The image below shows how things like this happen (building to the numbers without knowing the actual goal).

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

How to get a building permit in Seattle

If you are considering a remodel, addition, or building a new home, this thought has probably crossed your mind: “how do I get a building permit?” You probably have also thought, “how long does it take to get a permit, and how much does a permit cost? You’re in the right place, because I will answer those questions (and more)!

Let’s get the easy one out of the way: how much does a permit cost? This obviously varies, and it depends on size and complexity of the project. The building department has a spreadsheet that calculates estimated permit fees for you: https://www.seattle.gov/documents/Departments/SDCI/Codes/2024FeeEstimator.xlsx

You can plug in your project type and size, and it spits out an answer. If you just want a basic idea for the cost of residential permits in Seattle, plan for around $5000 for small remodels and additions and around $10,000 for new construction. Those are just estimates, however. They charge you about half when you turn your project into them to start the review, and they charge the other half, PLUS additional time they spend once they finish the review process. The base rate is $257 per hour, and the zoning people charge $439 per hour!! This is much higher than the typical architect charges to design and check plans. Nobody ever said government was efficient:)

Also keep in mind, you may have to pay for other permits like electrical, plumbing, mechanical, demolition, or environmental critical area permits too. Those are often less expensive than building permits though.

Next, let’s talk about how long the permit process takes. This largely depends on how busy the economy is. When things are booming, the whole process can take close to a year or maybe more. In slower economies, the permit process may only take a couple months.

The length of the process also depends on the steps you must go through. There’s a lot of hoops to jump through, so an experienced architect can help save you time and money by jumping through the relevant hoops at the appropriate times.

Here’s what the process looks like for a typical Seattle project that has an ECA (environmental critical area) since it’s common for properties to have an ECA like steep slope, landslide prone, liquefaction zone, shoreline, wetland, etc.

STEP 1: Pre-application

The “pre-app” is basically just to get your project on the city’s radar. This means you need to draw a site plan that shows where you will do the project and what it is, and you submit it through the city portal with an online application form. You also submit a form that says you agree to pay their fees, and yes, they will soon send you an intake fee invoice. You will need to pay this fee to move to the steps below. Once you submit the pre-app, the city will often send an inspector to do a drive-by to confirm your address, determine if you drew the trees on your site plan accurately, document the size and location of nearby water, sewer, and fire hydrants, verify the presence of any ECA’s, and include a few other special instructions for what to include with your full permit submittal when that time comes (like tell you to add curbs, sidewalks, street trees, street lights, or even to put in a better sewer in the street). The city of Seattle calls that a PASV (pre-application site visit). Once this is complete, they assign you a project number in their system.

STEP 2: Schedule Intake Appointment

Once you have your project number, you can now log into their portal (if you have an account) to work through the steps of getting permits. Since most people want to work quickly, we usually schedule the intake appointment right away, and we pick the soonest date available. We have seen these vary from 2 weeks away to over 6 months away. An intake date is the deadline for sending in your full set of drawings to apply for the actual permit. If you miss that deadline, you get fined, and you need to start over and schedule a new intake date (which can be devastating). If your property does not have an ECA on it, then skip down to step 4.

STEP 3: ECA Review

Since most properties tend to have an ECA on them, this step is like a mini permit process that must get approved before the actual building permit process can continue. Depending on your situation, your experienced architect can advise on whether you need an ECA exemption, relief, small project waiver, or variance. In those processes, the building department determines if your project will have an adverse impact on the environment, and they mandate a few items to protect the environment (in their opinion) such as a survey, geotechnical report, certain structural accommodations, or some other sort of mitigation. Once the issue the ECA approval, you now know what to include with your actual building permit application. Think of the ECA process as a prerequisite for your actual building permit process. On complicated properties, it is possible that you may have to go through several subsequent ECA processes. These usually take around 2-4 months each.

STEP 4: Permit Intake

Sometime prior to 7am on your scheduled intake date, you must upload all of your drawings and other forms onto the city permit portal. If you submit early, this enables you to get bumped up sooner if someone else cancels. At your intake, the city staff review your project to determine if you have submitted a complete application. If you forget a form, don’t provide enough detail, etc, they can kick you out, and you would need to schedule a new intake date to submit a more complete application. I once got rejected because 3 copies of the drawings were required, and one copy was on heavier weight paper than the other two. I argued my way out of that one, but it makes me appreciate the online submittal process since it saves the time, expense, and hassle of printing and submitting hard copies. Also, once a permit is accepted for intakes, it is deemed to be a complete application, and the project is vested in the rules applicable at that time. Since permits take so long to review, it is common for the rules to change during the review process. That would be unfair to make people redesign and redraw their project every time a rule changes. That would be like a cop giving you get a ticket for going through a green light because he changed the rule for green to mean stop.

STEP 5: Review

After the city staff has determined that your plans include the required pages and forms, then your application waits in a queue until they actually start reviewing it. The review of the work is not just for completeness this time. They are now reviewing it for the quality of the work to ensure it adheres to the codes (or at least their interpretation of the codes). Several different departments will review the drawings such as addressing, zoning, building ordinance, structural, civil, geotechnical, tree, energy, and others. Those departments will each issue a correction notice which requests additional information to be added to the plans. We try to only submit the bare minimum for the initial review since we don’t want the city officials to scrutinize stuff that is not in their purview. The correction notices may ask to add a smoke detector, include another calc for a beam, or add trees, for example. Once all of the departments have completed their review, they send a consolidated report with all of their requests aggregated.

STEP 6: Review Responses

Once we receive all of the plan review comments from the various city departments, we first make fun of a few of them for how ridiculous they are (like being asked to put a big box around a note to emphasize it - we politely tell them to stick to enforcing real rules instead of telling us to bend over to comply with their personal preferences). Then we add the additional information to the plans, and we resubmit using the city online portal. That process can repeat several times until all the reviewers are happy with the info provided. It is common for the reviewers to make mistakes, forget to ask for something, or to completely miss seeing something on the plans.

STEP 7: Approval

Once all the reviewers are content with the plans, they approve them form permit, and each page gets a city approval stamp on it. This doesn’t mean the process is over though.

STEP 8: Payment

Of course the city holds your permit and approved drawings hostage until you pay them the permit approval fee.

STEP 9: Issuance

Once the city receives your final payment for the permit, they take their sweet ass time and eventually issue you the permit and approved drawings in digital form usually about 2 weeks later.

STEP 10: Printing

Your architect will help you to coordinate getting the large drawing sheets printed, so you can have them displayed on site as required.

STEP 11: Inspections

Once you have your permit, you can start building, and at various points throughout the process, you need to schedule inspections for things like foundations, framing, insulation, etc.

STEP 12: Trade Permits

As you move through the construction process, you will need to get other permits for things like plumbing, electrical, mechanical, etc. Usually the plumber or electrician will apply for those permits on your behalf. They are often much simpler than building permit applications and just need a single page filled out. Often, they get approved and issued within a day - if you pay the fee:)

I hope that summarizes the permit process and answers your questions. Feel free to reach out for more specific questions.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Flag

This is your flag if you live in the USA.

​ I’d like you to know why I didn't fly our country’s flag​ in the past​, but now I do.
As a younger person, I didn’t know much about where I came from, and I didn’t know my role in my community. I thought I was just here to help myself and to try and make my family proud. I did what I could to be the best I could be. I worked really hard, I did my best to make as few mistakes as possible, and I learned from them when I did. I didn’t necessarily try to do any of this work for the benefit of others. It was mainly focused on me.

And maybe that’s ok. At that time, I was just learning. I was learning my profession, I was learning how to be a good man, I was learning how to care for myself. We all need to be able to take care of ourselves before we can be much of a help to others. In fact, they literally say this on airline safety briefings: put on your oxygen mask before helping others (you won’t be much help if you’re dead). Similarly, we all go through a period of growth before we gain enough substance to help those around us. It’s tough to help your community when you don’t have much skill to offer.

For me, I saw my country as just a place I happened to live. I didn’t feel any sort of connection to it except maybe when the Olympics were on. I didn’t think much about the place I was born, how I got here, how my country got here, and what that all means. I simply didn’t care due to lack of interest.

Then things changed. They came into focus. Here’s why:

I came into a part of my life where I gained the confidence to help myself and others. I developed the skills to thrive. I can create more than I need. I can share my success, earnings, and time with others. I have something to give. I started to think about what I can give. Should I give? What is my role in my community? I am not particularly wealthy, but I realized I can help my community with my skills and time.

This made me realize that our community is run by people like you and me. Our country is exactly what it is made up of: you and me. It’s not made up of the government. The government only sets the loose standards to live by, but those rules were set up by people like you and me from a couple hundred years ago. They were people who believed in living in a free land without the control of a royal family or as indentured servants. This country was literally formed not long ago as a refuge for immigrants who wanted a fair shot.

Of course, times were different when our constitution was written, but the intent of it was a direct outcome of the adverse lands that our ancestors fled from. As a result, we now have the basic right to live a happy life without arbitrary rules, taxes, or other requirements regardless of who you are, what your last name is, or where you came from. We believe in a fair start, and our country is exactly what we make of it. If we want something to be better, we have the right to start doing it. If we are being treated unfairly, we have the right to stand up against it. There is no sovereign state or caste system that predetermines who we can be. We are allowed to choose for ourselves. We can choose to help ourselves and others. The people of this country are what makes it a country. The sum of the parts is greater than the whole, but only if we work together with the same common goal to live happily in a fair and free place. By acting on behalf of our country, we benefit ourselves and others.

With an understanding that helping my country actually means helping me, helping my family, and helping my neighbors, I was able to understand my role in my community. I realized I had skills that could benefit others, and it became clear that it is everyone’s civic duty to engage their community by participating in it. Help where you can, and take what you need. Give back when you’re able.

So how does this relate back to hanging the flag?

There’s a few loud mouth ding dongs out there that act with a level of ignorance so profound that it makes it on the news, and they seem to embrace the flag as their symbol. With enough media coverage, the image of the flag can be misconstrued to represent their nonsense. This embarrassing behavior causes real Americans not to fly the flag. Regrettably, this was me for a time.

Let us all remember, this is not who WE are.

WE the people, are not ignorant bigots who think we are better than other groups. This is completely contrary to why this country was founded in the first place. We are accepting of all groups, we build each other up, and we build our community TOGETHER. We are not all the same, and that is ok. It’s our right to be different. We are allowed to be who we want to be as long as it doesn’t create unfairness for others. When one person is successful, it helps our whole community to succeed. WE are our country. WE represent our flag. Our flag does not represent the small fraction of a percent of loud mouths who don’t live the American ideals. Those people are no better than the old world lords of Europe or elsewhere who controlled the land and tainted it for their indentured servants. Our flag represents the freedoms that most of our ancestors were not lucky enough to have.

I didn’t quite understand this until I learned about my own family history. I never had any real cultural family traditions. I didn’t really know much about my heritage or what my ancestors were all about. I always assumed it went so far back that it just didn’t matter. That wasn’t true. At a family reunion, in speaking with my parents, aunts, uncles, and looking at the family tree, I realized my own American history didn’t go back very far.​

​Their grandparents came here from Eastern Europe because they were starving. They farmed land that they couldn’t own due to centuries of lords who controlled those lands and the people on them. They were required to give their crops to those lords as a “tax”, and the lords kept taking more and more land away while requiring more and more crops as tax. Eventually there weren’t enough crops to pay the tax, so the lords would take away even more land. Consequently, there wasn’t enough land to grow enough crops, and there were not enough crops leftover to eat. It was a vicious, desperate cycle that led to starvation and ultimately fleeing the country to find a place where they could have a fair shot without the hindrances of a sovereign power.

America was that place for them and many other families like them. America was a sanctuary for people then - just like it is now. I didn’t really have cultural family traditions because they were intentionally left behind. My great grandparents were happy to become Americans by vacating their oppressed lives and adopting new American traditions.

The inhabitants of this land who are already settled and comfortably established can decide to either accept those in need or to shun them. Acceptance means sharing and welcoming. Starting in a new place takes work. It takes really hard work. America doesn’t give you anything, but it does allow you the opportunity to work for a fair shot, and over time, as you build up your skill, your rations, and understand your own place in your community, you can live a life free of tyranny with the chance to be whatever you’d like to be. And you do all this with the understanding that those before you lived a hard life to enable you to be here, and there will be many more after you to abandon their places of injustice to come and live in this place of freedom.

Don’t lose sight of that.

Have you seen immigrants wearing American flag T-shirts that they likely bought at a gas station? You know the ones with a wavy flag and a soaring bald eagle on it? Those folks are extremely proud to wear that shirt. They are so happy to have the chance to live in a safe place that pays them a wage and offers them the basic rights that every human deserves. They didn’t have those luxuries where they came from, so they savor the benefits they experience within this country, and as first generation immigrants, they are working harder than most people ever will even dream of - just to be part of this great country. My ancestors did that same thing, and I have sincere respect for all of them. I am lucky they did the hard work, and I want us all to work together to help others in a similar situation.

Our grandparents were happy to have the opportunity to work for 50¢ a day to build our country’s roads and railroads. My dad and his dad were happy to have a job for them in the steel mills. It was a hard life, but it was much better than the hopeless situations their grandfathers were forced to flee in Europe. This opportunity is what our country offers, and we all need to ensure we protect it. We work together to make our free system thrive, and we must all be willing to work hard to do it. Chances are that we will never work as hard as our forefathers, and for that, we should be proud to live in this country and honor their sacrifice and step up to work hard any chance we get. We need to honor the sacrifice of those who welcomed them, taught them, and worked together to make our young country move forward.

American history really doesn’t go back that far in comparison to other countries that are thousands of years old. It is amazing that in such a short time, we have become a dominant place of hope and opportunity that is repeatedly a caregiver for the rest of the world. In such a short time, we were able to create a place where people have the opportunity to thrive and to assist others to do the same. There are little blips of time where this gets challenged, so let’s not let those adversaries take ownership of an ideal that they don’t even share. Live your best life and ignore that noise.

Once I started to realize these things, I became more open to understanding my role in the community and how lucky I am to be part of this country. I never had a true hardship due to the sacrifices that were made before me. This is pure luck, and I am honored to work hard for the benefit of myself, my family, and my community to protect what we have and to allow it to endure for those after us.

I never served time in the armed forces. I did receive a congressional appointment to the US Coast Guard Academy, but I ultimately turned it down. While serving in the military is an honorable and direct way of protecting our freedoms, it is not the only way to help our country. The military is one facet of our community, and there’s many more ways to be a positive part of our country.

I do believe that serving in the military is the ultimate sacrifice in protecting our freedoms, however. Sure, our world would be better without wars and armies, but that is not the world we live in. Remember, our country was established due to the inhumane conditions elsewhere, and those adversaries will stop at nothing to undo it all. Our military protects us from that. When was the last time another military bombed your town? Never? Other countries are attacked all the time. It doesn’t happen here though. We must remember to feel fortunate that we have a very low likelihood of seeing a foreign army invade our own backyard. We are very lucky to live here. We have food, shelter, heat, water, and safety. Many places do not.

If you’re afraid to honor the fact that you’re an American, you are taking all of the sacrifices given to you for granted, and you are allowing a small fraction of a percent of internal adversaries to steal your identity. Don’t allow them to force you to adopt a new identity. We are more powerful than that, and you are much more kind, caring, hardworking, and intelligent than them. Our country is yours. You belong here. The flag isn’t for one political party or the other. It’s for both. By thinking otherwise, you are being divisive. Be United, and share the flag with your neighbors - even the ones who are different from you. Be respectful. It is your flag as much as it is theirs - just as our county is built upon a system of checks ​and balances. Don’t allow or expect all the power to be given to one side. It is shared. Sharing the flag with mutual respect embodies that sentiment.

If you denounce your country or flag, you’re no better than any radicalized group that claims solo ownership of it, and you’re letting them win. If you denounce your flag and country, then what’s your plan? Start a new country? Live on your own (while still enjoying the freedoms your country afforded you)? We live better together. Mankind does not thrive in solitude. Be willing to be part of your country instead of ignoring it. Like JFK said, “ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country.” Participate. Work for it. We will all be better because of it. Don’t give up.

One of my mentors was scrutinized because he had a Betsy Ross flag on his wall that could be seen by others during a virtual meeting (this is the first flag of the USA which has the stars arranged in a circle). Although I didn’t know it, that flag was used by a small, radical group to represent itself. This is a group with beliefs that go against what America represents and against the ideals this county was founded upon. It’s disgraceful that a group could tarnish a symbol of our great country by using it to represent their atrocious beliefs.

Here’s the solution: don’t let them.

That flag is not theirs. It doesn’t represent their beliefs just because they say it does. This country is composed of millions of people that don’t think like they do, so they don’t get to change the ideals of this country. This country already stands for something despite whatever hateful sentiments they may have. Don’t let their voice be louder. We have the opportunity and the numbers, to be even louder. In a democracy, the majority rules. That fraction of a fraction of a percent does not.

Needless to say, my mentor was also unaware that a disgraceful group used the Betsy Ross flag to represent them. He was devastated to learn this, and he took it down - for a time. After giving it more thought (like explained above), he put it back up because it was the more honorable thing to do.

This flag was a gift to him as a thank you token for deeds he performed that were so profound that no item or gesture could ever come close to repaying him. Many people that know him are aware that he went to college and later served time in the army to pay for it. What many people don’t know about him is that he didn’t just take a desk job as an officer to pass his time to get college paid for. Instead, he understood his role, his opportunity, and his responsibility to our country, and he paid his college tuition back by giving his time in a more directly impactful way: he stepped up and became an elite army ranger.

Army ranger school is no picnic. It’s grueling. It condenses the atrocities similar to that of the poor living conditions our ancestors experienced into a few months of terror as those soldiers are tested and trained physically and mentally to succeed in the worst conditions imaginable. They are capable of doing things that even the best American cannot.

He voluntarily signed up for that.

He also got sent into war to help protect our freedoms (several times).

Luckily he came home without physical harm, and he made significant contributions to helping our country succeed. Without getting into gory details, we owe him a great deal of gratitude, and those that fought alongside him were lucky that he was there with them. He’s the sort of guy we are all lucky to have representing our country, and our flag represents him and those like him. It doesn’t represent the low-lifes that threaten our freedom. The flag that was gifted to him is a reminder of his efforts, successes, and losses as he sacrificed so much for you and me. He paid his country back, and we all reaped the reward for his effort.

This is why I fly my flag.

I am honored, fortunate, and grateful to be part of this country, and our American flag reminds me to do my best to give what I can to you and your family. I hope my flag reminds you of that, and I hope your flag will do the same for you and your neighbors.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Josh Published a Book!

Several years ago, I wrote a book for a college course I was teaching because a suitable textbook did not exist. The content was on designing and drafting interior residential details. What is that? It is a sort of architectural drawing that focuses in on a very particular element like a crown molding, handrail, etc. It explains to a builder some of the specific items that should be built into that feature.

I didn’t just start writing a book one day. Instead, I began by including a few excerpts from my various projects that I would hand out to students to use as a reference. Eventually, that turned into a stack of stapled pages that I would hand out. Then, it got more serious and turned into a curated binder with some organization to it. Eventually, I tried to find a text book that could explain what I was trying to explain, but I could not find one. Then it hit me: I needed to write a book.

I took all of that content and re-compiled it into a format that would be easy to use, I added illustrations and additional drawings, and I included step-by-step guides. Then I figured out how to print and bind it all together, so the students would have a useful textbook that would get them through the class and serve them well through the launch of their careers in the design industry. That is where “Details!” started.

I started to work with a well-known publisher who specializes in school textbook production, but I was not thrilled with all the compromise they were forcing on me. I actually met with an attorney to see if I was being unreasonable. He agreed with me, and I decided not to continue working with that publisher.

Instead, I went another route, and now you can find the book on Amazon for a fraction of the cost that the big publishers wanted to charge to starving students. You can find it here:

Details! Introduction to Drafting Interior Residential Details

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help

Fed Up

The pursuit of happiness is what our country is built on. The protection of health, safety, and welfare of building occupants is what my occupation as an architect is based on. All too often, power hungry losers at the building departments act as gatekeepers and prevent people from getting one of the most basic tenets of happiness in life: the freedom to build their own shelter on their own terms. Sure, there’s rules in place to keep people safe and even to prevent an atrocious hideous building from negatively impacting a neighbor. This is not what I’m venting on here.

I’m an architect who is completely fed up with building department officials who impart excessive, unfounded requirements on citizens which are not remotely grounded on the role of their job: to protect life and prevent negative impacts on others. I’m fed up with government officials that make citizens compromise and build things they don’t want or need, and I’m fed up with unnecessary delays that cost innocent citizens unwarranted delays (which translates directly to money spent that yields no benefit).

Governments have made housing worse in many cases. They have escalated the cost to build. They have escalated the time to build. They have created a shortage of housing because of their meddling.

As far as I’m concerned, if you work for a building department, I assume you are evil. Is this “job-ist”? No. It’s statistical experience. For all the building department employees I deal with, 1 out of 20 might be somewhat reasonable (do not confuse this with ​"reasonable​"​ since I said ​"somewhat​"​ reasonable). What this means is that these robots do NOT exercise their ability to reason. They only stick to the book, BUT, they are even bad at that! They misconstrue “the book” to make their job easier and to command higher fees for applications, permits, and inspections.

For example, how does it make any sense to disallow a person’s driveway 12’ away from a tree while also requiring th​at same homeowner to plant 4 trees just 3’ from a street? They tell me the one car on the driveway will kill the fucking tree, but they have no concern for the trees to be planted on the planting strip that are inches away from hundreds of cars per day (all while shedding leaves that will clog the city sewer system). What sense does this make? This is only the tip of the iceberg. I have hundreds more examples. Building departments are corrupt agencies that try too hard to create funding to justify their own existence at the expense of the people who spend their hard earned money on one of the most basic human needs: shelter.

I am an advocate for beating this system because it should not exist.​ Utah, for example, stopped plan reviews for residential projects.​ Architects and engineers are highly trained and experienced experts who actually care about their projects and the people who use them. Building departments do not. They don’t care for you or your project. I advocate for dissolving building departments and focusing on the development and regulation of the professionals who design buildings. Does a doctor ever get told to stop, wait, and change their surgery in the middle of it? Like doctors, architects and engineers are highly trained and licensed professionals who perform their work to that standard of care. We don’t need power-hungry, begrudging, disgruntled, lazy, careless losers telling us how to do our work. When we have questions about how to do our work, we ask - and trust that building department officials are not the people we ask. We ask people who actually know what they are doing: builders, architects, engineers, and material suppliers. We apply their expertise to the situation, and we design the best possible outcome - or we tell our clients: no, this is not a good idea. We don’t need building departments to intervene.

If you’d like to learn more about our design process, visit www.josharch.com/process, and if you’d like to get us started on your project with a feasibility report, please visit www.josharch.com/help